Rustica (First Draft)

The pristine white plate held a brownie, its dark and rich body crumbling like nutrient-dense earth crumbles from well-worn hands.  A thick blanket of glistening chocolate ganache draped over its top while a scoop of Palazzolo’s chocolate gelato settled against its side, melting slightly in the wake of the brownie’s warm center.  Whole hazelnuts dotted the dessert, little white beads of subtle crunch complimenting the backdrop of intense chocolate.   

The Callebaut Chocolate Brownie took up the same space that a regular sized stapler would occupy on a desk, but at Rustica, the size of a meal reveals nothing of its quality.  Situated on Kalamazoo Mall, only a 15 minute walk from Kalamazoo College campus, you will find the small yet oh-so-satisfying restaurant, Rustica.  The concept of “Rustic European Cuisine” is at the forefront of its theme, as is its use of locally-sourced foods.  When looking at its simple menu, in the top right corner you will see the many establishments and businesses that Rustica proudly supports.  These include venues such as Otto’s Poultry, MacKenzies’ Bakery, and Mattawan Artisan Creamery, to name a few.  Further down on the menu are the food options with a short description of each meal under it.  Simplicity seems to be an important part of Rustica’s mission… until entering the restaurant.  Upon first entrance there was an overwhelming amount of tables, and the dim lighting and loudness of the place only added to a slightly chaotic feeling. 

Most tables were prepared to cater to groups of four, but scattered sparsely among the crowded white-clothed, candlelit sea were a couple tables with room for up to six people.  Every seat was occupied.  Guests were chatting and smiling over glasses of French Pinot Noir, 2008 Spanish Monastrell, and Michigan’s own Wyncroft Riesling.  Conversations smashed into each other and collected in the extra space of the high ceiling, giving the cramped space at least a little breathing room.  Servers wearing clean black shirts and dress pants with white towels draped over their forearms skillfully maneuvered the jumble of tables to take food orders consisting of Roasted Bone Marrow complimented with olive tapenade, house jam, and grilled bread; Braised Lamb Shank served with swiss chard gratin and roasted artichoke; and Pan-Roasted Michigan Chicken flanked by seasonal mashed potatoes and sautéed greens, complete with a drizzle of roasted garlic jus. 

After a moderate amount of time, our food was placed before us by our own stealthy server, who had enthusiastically aided me in my initial confusion of word meanings on the menu.  The starter was a small nest of grilled asparagus sprinkled with olive oil and fines herbes, topped with a poached egg nestled delicately in its center.  The asparagus had a robust earthy aroma that tasted like sun-baked garden, the fines herbes adding the slightest deviation of flavor to keep it interesting.  The yolk of the poached egg spilled over the shoots of asparagus to create a mouth-watering dish that brought images of free-range chickens, fields of sunflowers, and a well-fed sweaty farmer to mind. 

Next was the Baked Seafood Tagliatelle.  Its smell was slightly overpowering, the shrimp and parmigiano reggiano combining to create a very distinct, if not somewhat unpleasant odor, somewhere in between the muted smell of warm milk and an aquarium.  The flat noodles wound around five sweating bulging shrimp while the scallops and leeks took on a less ostentatious role, hiding under the layer of slightly crisped noodles and baked cheese.  The first few bites proved difficult, as the top layer of noodles had been hardened and were stubbornly sticking together.  The initial smell was not at all hard to get over with the juicy, just-caught-this-morning taste of the steaming shrimp.  The scallops revealed themselves steadily throughout the dish, tasting of ocean breeze bending blades of beach grass.  Halfway through the meal I discovered the juices of the shrimp, scallops, leeks, and endive all congregating together near the bottom of the bowl, and found myself wishing they had been more evenly distributed throughout the dish; those first few bits had been a struggle. 

If planning on going to Rustica, expect to be at first a little overwhelmed by the people, the sheer volume of tables, and the claustrophobic atmosphere.  But also be prepared to indulge in some of the most satisfyingly fresh and delicious food, much of it coming right from Kalamazoo!  Be prepared to interact with enthusiastic servers, slightly smelly fish and cheese combinations, and to leave with your stomach pleasantly full and your soul nourished.  This is simply great food.